This morning Bob America lurched over to my place for a surf session despite the rough fermentation of the night before. He had downed two Negro Modelos, two glasses of an Australian pinot, a glass of bubbly and two pints of Guinness, best he could remember. The libations had stayed till morning and were now […]
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I had just struggled onto my second wave this morning at Ocean Beach when something blue-black flickered past me quick as a starling. The apparition was past before I recognized it as a fellow boardsman. Sliding along a sixty-degree wall of water, he had simply weaved around me, no room to spare, like Jackie Chan […] If you stood on shore and watched me surf, you would not be reminded of the muscular boardwork of Laird Hamilton or the boys of “Endless Summer” cruising off Diamond Head. You would watch me pitch face-first off my board, again, and ask yourself: Should I call 911? Photo Credit: your-local-surf.blogspot.com Then, as […] |
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