Bob America (right) and Rich feel the stoke.
Psst. Don’t tell anyone, but I think I just might be getting better at this surfing thing.
If you’ve been reading this blog, you know that there’s a move I find super-scary – tipping myself over the edge of a wave that is big enough to go vertical. It feels like leaping off the top of an armoire.
This Sunday, surfing with my buddies Bob America and Rich in ice-cream-headache water at Linda Mar, I chased after a wave. Suddenly I found myself riding left and crouched like Spiderman. With my right hand I gripped the right rail, or side, of my board. This helped me dig the left rail hard into the wave, which might have actually been vertical.
I was moving so fast at the time that I couldn’t judge. Only a minute later, bobbing from under the spent wave, did my conscious mind catch up and ask, in a rather awed tone, Did I really just do that?
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